De Perros y Limones

Giving Thanks

Giving Thanks

I had a day off this week!  Yay!  It was a bank holiday to celebrate the independence of Portugal many centuries ago, independence from the evil Spanish empire.  I did wonder if our car, with its Spanish number plates, would be marked in some way.  It didn’t in the end but we do notice that when we drive, our foreignness is noted by many local drivers who assume that we are:-

  1. Fuckwits (because all foreigners are)
  2. Lost
  3. Aimless or
  4. Aware that we are inferior to the Portuguese and therefore should be overtaken at any opportunity including on roundabouts because we obey the speed limit and this is not a natural thing  to do here.
  • Granada

I would like to say it is a typical Lisbon thing but it also happens out in the sticks as well.  What to do?

Well, not knock over idiot cyclists would be one thing to do here.  We have no idea why but it seems to be a thing here for people cycling (and there are a lot of them on the weekend) to dress all in black with a black helmet and no lights just to make sure that it is really really difficult for drivers to see them on the road as they bomb along. 

We just don’t get it.  The few cyclists that we have actually heard and who were wearing fluorescent clothing turned out to be foreigners.  And they weren’t riding side by side on the Marginal, the incredibly busy beach road that connects Lisbon central with posh Cascais for over 20km. 

Now we have no issue with cyclists claiming their right to be road users, far from it.  But to ride two abreast during rush hour on a winter’s morning wearing black and merrily chatting away as hundreds of cars hastily swerve to try to avoid you on one of the busiest roads in Portugal isn’t my idea of making friends and influencing people.  Unless you count attracting the ire of my friend Mark who gives me a lift on a Wednesday morning and who likes nothing better than winding his window down and giving these idiots a load of verbal as we pass them. 

In English, of course.  Everyone here understands it. 

And we are very thankful that they do.  Portuguese is such a difficult language to grasp when you hear it.  It is a lot easier to get when it is written down but I have to say that neither of us understands when it is spoken to us. 

Thank god for a good education system that values foreign languages, eh?

After the excitement of moving here, the excitement of working in a new school, the excitement of finding and moving into a new flat and the excitement of furnishing it followed by the excitement of my family visiting us,  some sort of normality has arranged itself on our lives in our middle class suburb of this ancient Atlantic city.  Our days and weeks have a rhythm to them where we do not do unbelievably amazing things that are blog-worthy but things that we are thankful that we are able to do.

Surrealism at its best

We can go out and eat in restaurants that serve a whole range of international and local cuisine and we can get there via a cheap train ride provided by the state railways that make sure their trains run on time, are clean, have people wearing masks and that are patrolled by big police officers with side arms who do not take any crap from anyone without being menacing about it.

We can go shopping together, something we were not able to do in Morocco for a few months.  We can walk to the beach with the dogs and not be worried about being told off by police officers.  We can live together!  We are not apart anymore.  This, this more than anything is that one thing that we are most thankful for. 

Sure, going to work each morning and leaving Sonalee behind isn’t exactly nice but I do come home to her each evening to face four loud dogs with frantically waving tails.  It would be nice if we could work in the same school again but we are content with the way that it is right now.   I am lucky that I am in a place which recognises that teachers are entitled to a home life and in a country  that places this in law.  Employers are not allowed to phone, text or email their employees outside work hours.  When I think back to my last teaching post in the UK, you could not get a starker difference.

Portugal has a heavily socialist leaning  populace which means that workers’ rights is actually a thing.  As is childcare.  I am covering a teacher for a whole year as she has government-sanctioned maternity leave.  Imagine that in the UK?  And the laws here are the reason that we are all in Lisbon right now – the government paid for a replacement teacher for the school to cover an employee forced to stay at home during the lockdown to look after their young child and therefore unable to work properly.  Imagine that in the UK!

Being socialist means that stuff like bureaucracy is an absolute nightmare as you fill out form after form after form just to get an electricity bill sent to your address.  And it isn’t perfect here either.  There are constant complaints about the wages of key workers like bus drivers and nurses and teachers who really do not earn that much.  But this is also an economy that is not French or German and does not have clout that the Spanish do within the Eurozone.

But Portugal is, equally, not Greece for example.  It is stable.  It does have great wine like the Greeks, this is true as well as the multi-idiot drivers but it is nowhere near as corrupt nor just plain crazy.  True,  some aspects of the macho culture could do with being consigned to the rubbish bin of history but there is something empowering in seeing just as many moronic female drivers as male on the motorways of Lisbon.

In truth, we are still very much at the early learning stage of living in Portugal.  We know that they take Christmas much more seriously than the Spanish and that they have really good wine.  We know they take animal rights seriously and have excellent wine.  We are both aware of the vibrant café culture and the incredible wine.  I like to think that we appreciate the nonchalant attitude to health and safety as well as the quality of the wine.  We know a tiny bit about the history of the country  and a little bit more about the stunning wines they have here. 

We have been gradually assimilating these trifles of knowledge, all the while grateful that we are in a position to be able to do so.

Our local park

Part of the normalisation of our lives has been the planning for our Christmas holiday.  We now have traditions after our three years in Andalusia.  There is the Advent calendar from Lidl, obviously. Sonalee puts the tree up whilst I sleep in for hours with Dora on the bed curled up in her jumper.  We buy the ticket for the Spanish lottery, the largest on the planet, in hope that it will save us career decisions later on in life but also in awe at the spectacle on the telly that day that just sucks you in for hours on end.  We watch Die Hard, the ultimate Christmas film.  Perry Como goes onto the record player to give us his Christmas Songs as we get the fire going. We go to a party on Christmas Eve in the village and then we go for a walk with four dogs on the big day, fours dogs who couldn’t care less about the big day.  And that is Christmas.  And we can’t wait especially as we welcome my mum once again to share our somewhat few traditions.

Another normal for us is the strangers looking after Luna after she buggered off during our walk.  Sonalee had tags made for all of the dogs after being advised that the Portuguese are too lazy for micro-chips and instead rely on a name and number on a metal disc if they are to help an animal .  On Sunday, the day when we drive for 30 minutes to reach the countryside, we were returning from the crashing waves of the beach and Sonalee gets a text from a local to say that they have Luna safe and sound.  She had been gone for about an hour and half and we were beginning to get worried.  She had gotten carried away with rabbit hunting, not followed us at all and then made her way back to the van when she felt it was acceptable to leave. 

Kind strangers had seen her, texted Sonalee and then waited with her to keep her safe in the car park traffic.   We are very thankful indeed.  This is not the first  time that Luna has been looked after by strangers and I doubt it will be the last.

The big normalisation of life for me was, of course, the girls’ football tournament of last week.  I have been charged with coaching the grade 7 and 6 girls and a position somewhat like my time in Sri Lanka – an English teacher also in charge of a football team.  So, once again I have two bosses – my school head and also the Head of PE.  As in Sri Lanka, my head of PE is brilliant.  He gets me and my  style and is extremely supportive. 

The day of the tournament saw me anxious and excited in equal measure.  It had been three and a half years since I had been the manager of a group of determined young ladies.  The first match brought back so many good memories of my time in Sri Lanka and Bristol and the sheer joy of sending fierce warriors out to battle.  God, it was so good to be back.  To be back being me.  To be back being proud of a young group of kids who had done their best  to win at a game they all loved. 

We ended up coming second.  I will take that.  The silver medal sits above me right now, hanging off the shelf and reminding me that I cannot ever really change that much.    I will admit now that there were brief tears last Friday as our first game got underway in the light rain of a Lisbon autumn morning. 

The tears were for a return to a normal that I had forgotten, for a return to a normal that I had missed and for a thankfulness that our year apart was actually, finally and definitely over.  That is how it felt.  Illogical, I know.  Hyperbolic too, obviously.  But…

What to do?

Ayubowan

Hasta luego, inshallah

The mighty Estoril playing. They’re actually 4th in the Portuguese league.

Tchao

  • One of the scariest mascots ever

Paul

PS:   Loving this even as listening to the original makes me feel old.   This isn’t bad either (give it a minute or so before it really gets going).

Paul

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