It’s been 12 hours and eight days since I left my love at Casablanca Airport to return home. And I didn’t even do a Humphrey Bogart tribute. Next time.
We think there will have to be a next time. Probably in February. It looks like there will be no resumption of ferries for the next few months still. We can’t spend so long apart again. The cost of a short visit to Rabat is immaterial, frankly. It’s the state of our minds that we worry about more. The good news is that Sonalee will be coming home for a few weeks for Christmas.
The Ruins
God, it was just so good to see her again. And Bibi, who looks like a very happy and well-fed dog at last. And to meet Sparky, who loves to terrorise Bibi.
We didn’t do much. We spent an anxious two hours getting a covid test that ended up not being required (given what Royal Air Maroc had done before, I regret nothing), had an amazing lunch in Rabat centre, had some lovely walks on the beach, drank a lot of wine, did those things that husbands and wives do, I cooked cauliflower cheese (oh, yeah!), Sonalee cooked curry for us and some of our friends and we smiled at each other a lot. Oh, and Bibi woke me up one morning by playfully biting the private parts that are extremely sensitive to a man.
I also delivered five tins of baked beans for my wife, numerous parcels of stuff for friends (Morocco is much harder to get stuff sent to than Spain), some Spanish foodstuffs for other friends and some much needed collars for Bibi.
I will admit that I was tremendously stressed that week. On the Tuesday the Spanish government announced a stricter lockdown which I thought might delay me getting to the airport. I was dropping the dogs off at a lovely but extremely remote kennels that I had never been to before and one that google maps cannot direct you to. We got there in the end, after Bindi had left a load of vomit to hastily clear up, the poor thing.
The absolute nightmare, after driving to Malaga the week before to get a covid test that thankfully proved negative, would have been Royal Air Maroc Airlines announcing that they had changed the rules just as I was going to bed at 10.30 at night- I had a really early start in the morning. I had printed out my negative covid test so that I could get on the plane. Imagine if they announced that the tests had to now have been done in the past 72 hours rather than the results posted in the past 72 hours, as they had been saying for six months? Imagine if they did that without even texting me? Imagine my wife having to send me that literally as I was brushing my teeth? Imagine her finding that out on facebook of all places? Imagine all of your plans up in the air because Royal Air Maroc continue to be the worst communicators on the planet?
Yep. They did that.
Of course they did. Why not?
It is at this point where Maggie, a colleague at RAS, sent Sonalee a message to say that her mum in America would be able to help in the twelve hours that were spare in order to comply with the new orders that Royal Air Maroc, in their utter fuckwittery, decided were good enough to transcend everything that you had previously held to be true. Maggie’s mum was an expert in photoshop.
Maggie, you and your mum are marvels and I am not sure we can ever thank you enough.
Royal Air Maroc had just confirmed what I had been thinking all along – the Gods had been conspiring to keep Sonalee and I apart for even longer. It seemed that way anyway.
It was, honestly, a magical four days. It was brilliant. I’m in tears just remembering it. I can’t wait for her to come home at Christmas. I’m even going to clean the fridge. No, really.
I miss her so much. Each time that I try to quantify it by acknowledging that there are a lot more people a lot more worse off than us it makes me feel slightly better but then that familiar feeling of emptiness takes over at some odd times and I feel low again.
We’re trying to focus a lot on the future because the present is a bit shit. My immediate concern is what the hell I am going to do to keep me busy once I finish the kitchen this week. It is the last room in the house to have been ‘Pauled’. Being Pauled means it looks a lot better than it did but it is still a bit shit in places. I may have to buy another house and do that up. Or maybe get a job?
I could try to get a job for January somewhere in Spain but then that means that Sonalee and I will definitely, no doubt about it at all, be apart for six months. Three months has been bad enough. There still remains that flicker of hope that we can all be together at some point early next year so that we can all live together in Morocco for at least a few months.
I could do another course or two that would help my job prospects. That seems sensible. Boring, but sensible. I will, of course, continue to learn Spanish at the glacial rate that I am currently doing. I will continue to have four dogs to look after, dogs who expect only the best in terms of chicken, walkies and comfy places to sleep. It would be nice to visit the UK to see our families and to visit France to see our friends and Bilbao to see our Spanish family but that would be indulgent rather than a necessity.
I guess, like billions of others around the globe, we will have to sit and wait it out no matter how frustrating it is.
The village continues to struggle its way through the new lockdown and the more severe one that seems to be on its way. Chico’s has to shut at 6, as does Bar Corti. It means the only focus in Fuente Tojar in the evenings is the Coviran shop where locals shout out things they really don’t need to do so loudly. Oh, and young adults taking advantage of the free fibre optic wifi that permeates the centre of the village, saying Buenos noches to the tall Englishman who has four crazy dogs.
The Christmas lights are up along the main thoroughfares but, as yet, unlit. The road up the road has been abandoned halfway through its total upgrade due to covid hitting the builders of it – pebbles dash the surrounding roads. The turkeys in their free-range habitat next to the Guardia Civil are getting fatter, not realising their fate. The mayor has written to us all that we are not allowed out of the village without good reason and that we need to keep our houses well ventilated.
Our friend Jan has moved house three doors down from where she lived before and has the builders in creating dust and aggravation. Ken and Maria continue to swan around the place like they belong here – which of course they do so why wouldn’t they? The fields are populated by families busy collecting their olive harvest – no word as yet as to the quality of the yield. Hunters are still around on the weekend, trying to kill the rabbits that inhabit the fields or merely enjoying getting a bit pissed and shooting at random things that move.
The village continues to prepare itself for Christmas as if the troubles and strife of Sonalee and I matter little or not at all. And this is the way of things. That they enquire as to where Sonalee is makes me hope that we can ingratiate ourselves properly one day. For now, I guess I will have to face four expectant snouts each morning on my own.
The following images are an attempt at presenting our village as something that arises from its Roman beginnings through to the present day preoccupation with olive farming via traditional Andalusian cultural norms. For a village in the middle of nowhere I think they do it quite well.
Four more weeks until she comes home. Four more weeks until I can get my morning cup of tea delivered to me in bed. Oh, yeah!
Ayubowan
Hasta Luego, Inshallah
Paul
PS I know I am supposed to deride the Scots for their football team but last week I was so happy for them that they, finally, managed to qualify for a major tournament. I am so chuffed for my Scottish friends. I know it means a lot to them.
PPS Thank you to Kym for looking after my wife. My thanks will never be enough.
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